Miaoli Hakka Stir-fry

Hakka Stir-fry is one of the signature stir-fried dishes in the Hakka "Four Braises and Four Stir-fries" canon, made from pork, dried squid, pressed tofu, and celery tossed over high heat. Walk into almost any Hakka restaurant in Miaoli and flip to the first page of the menu — you will find it there. In the wok, sliced pork, dried squid, pressed tofu, and celery tumble over roaring flames; the moment soy sauce, sugar, and vinegar hit the pan, a savory aroma rises and the dish arrives glistening at the table, disappearing bowl after bowl of rice. In Miaoli — the county with the second-highest share of Hakka residents in Taiwan — it is practically the emblem of every Hakka village.

Hakka Stir-fry is one of the eight dishes in the traditional Hakka "Four Braises and Four Stir-fries," designated a classic Hakka dish by Taiwan's Hakka Affairs Council. A-Wu Sao's Restaurant in Sanwan Township, Miaoli County, won the national championship at the final round of the Council-hosted "2020 Hakka Stir-fry National Competition," held on January 16, 2021, at Taipei Expo Park. According to the Hakka Affairs Council's 2021 survey, Miaoli County's Hakka population share is 62.5%, the second highest in Taiwan after Hsinchu County's 67.8%.

What is Hakka Stir-fry

Hakka Stir-fry is made with pork belly, dried squid, pressed tofu (dougan), celery, and scallions, stir-fried over high heat with garlic, soy sauce, sugar, and rice wine. In the early days of Hakka villages, resources were scarce; leftover dried squid, pork, and pressed tofu from seasonal celebrations were too precious to discard, so they were shredded, stir-fried together, and seasoned heavily to go with rice. Over time the dish became a fixture at banquet tables. The dried squid must be soaked until soft and then julienned so its briny, savory depth can fully merge with the rendered pork fat — this step is the soul of the dish.

Miaoli County has the highest proportion of Hakka residents of any county in Taiwan. From Toufen, Sanwan, and Nanzhuang to Gongguan, Tongluo, and Shitan, every Hakka village has its own version. The "A-Wu Sao's Restaurant" in Sanwan won the national grand championship at the 2020 Hakka Stir-fry National Competition, marking the moment this everyday dish stepped onto a competitive stage. Each kitchen has its own ratio of seasonings — some lean sweeter, others saltier — but the core character of savory richness that pairs perfectly with rice never changes. It is the standard first choice on a Miaoli Hakka dining table.

How to eat it like a local

Local knowledge

Information compiled from the Miaoli County Government Tourism Bureau, township and district farmers' associations, and large-scale public reviews; sponsored listings have been excluded. Photos to be replaced with channel-exclusive footage after Dio's on-site shoot.