Taiwan Food Atlas

Keelung Jikula

One of the last hand-made charcoal-grilled chikuwa stalls left at Zhengbin Fishing Harbor — a remnant of Japanese colonial-era seafood craft
📍 Keelung · Zhongzheng · Zhengbin Fishing Harbor🏆 Notable · Seafood🔥 Fish paste wrapped on a rod and grilled over charcoal

On a side street across from the colorful buildings of Zhengbin Fishing Harbor, charcoal fires are lit before 5 a.m. Master Tu wraps freshly prepared swordfish paste in circles around a thin metal rod and sets it on the charcoal grill, slowly rotating it. The paste shifts from white to golden as it heats, filling the air with a toasty, savory aroma. Once a jikula is done, it holds its hollow tube shape with char marks from the grill. Bite in: the outside is crisp, the inside springy, and the ocean flavor is immediate. This is one of the last few hand-made traditions at Keelung's fishing harbor, produced daily in limited quantities and closed when sold out.

What is jikula?

Jikula is what locals at Zhengbin Fishing Harbor in Keelung call hand-made charcoal-grilled chikuwa. The name comes from a Taiwanese pronunciation of the Japanese word "ちくわ" (chikuwa). The method involves spreading fresh fish paste — primarily swordfish, shark, or lizardfish — around a long thin metal rod, then grilling it on a charcoal fire while rotating it so the paste heats evenly, the surface caramelizes, and the inside stays tender. After grilling, the rod is pulled out, leaving a hollow tube — the jikula. Unlike factory-pressed commercial chikuwa, hand-made charcoal-grilled jikula has irregular char marks on the surface and a firm, satisfying bite. Eaten plain it carries charcoal smoke and ocean flavor; dipping it in soy sauce with wasabi or tucking it into a rice ball are both Keelung local ways to enjoy it.

Why Keelung? The Japanese colonial government brought fish-paste processing techniques to Taiwan. With many fishing harbors and large catches, Keelung had a natural incentive to process excess or less-presentable fish into chikuwa, fish cake, fish paste rolls, and other products. After the Japanese left post-war, Keelung fishing families carried on the craft around Zhengbin and Badouzi. As factory-made chikuwa replaced handmade versions, only about 3–4 stalls at Zhengbin Fishing Harbor still insist on charcoal-fired hand-made production. Tu Da Hand-made Charcoal-grilled Jikula is the recognized representative. Daily output is limited; sales begin at dawn and the stall often sells out by afternoon — an increasingly rare harbor flavor.

How to eat it like a local

🌅
Get there earlyFreshly grilled jikula is most fragrant from 5–7 a.m. It often sells out by midday — don't wait until the afternoon.
🍙
Slice it and put it in a rice ballOne local Keelung way to eat jikula is to slice it thin and tuck the pieces inside a rice ball or serve them with plain rice.
🍺
Try it plain firstGood hand-made jikula has enough charcoal aroma on its own — take a plain bite before reaching for dipping sauce to judge the quality.
🥒
Cut into sections and pair with beerCutting it into segments and dipping in soy sauce with wasabi is the Japanese-style approach; it also works as an afternoon snack alongside beer.

Local knowledge

Verified references (no sponsored content)

  • The fish-paste processing tradition from the Japanese colonial period, and the Taiwanese pronunciation of "jikula" from the Japanese "ちくわ," are historically documented.
  • Only about 3–4 stalls at Zhengbin Fishing Harbor still insist on charcoal-fired hand-made production — a high rarity.
  • Tu Da is the representative hand-made jikula stall at Zhengbin, consistently named by local media and travel coverage.

Practical tips

  • Daily quantities are limited and the stall closes when sold out — call ahead to confirm availability on the day you plan to visit.
  • The colorful buildings at Zhengbin Fishing Harbor (a popular photo spot) are about a 5–10 minute walk from the jikula stall.
  • The charcoal grilling produces considerable smoke — don't stand in the airflow while taking photos, or your clothes will absorb the smell.

Information compiled from the Keelung City Government Department of Tourism and City Marketing and large-volume public reviews, with sponsored content filtered out. Photos to be replaced with channel-exclusive material after Dio's on-site shoot.