Nanfang'ao swordfish hei-lun is an oden-style fish cake made from freshly caught swordfish ground into paste; Nanfang'ao is one of Taiwan's three major fishing harbors, and swordfish catches peak in autumn and winter as the northeast monsoon sets in, when harbor-side vendors make and simmer the cakes fresh.
The Su'ao District Fishermen's Association website and media reports confirm Nanfang'ao is one of Taiwan's three major fishing harbors and is known as the 'hometown of mackerel.' Swordfish catches concentrate in autumn and winter, with the season generally beginning as the northeast monsoon arrives in October; white marlin in particular has an even shorter window, roughly October through late November (exact end dates vary by species and no single official figure was found, so this text uses the broader term 'autumn-winter'). The Nanfang'ao cross-harbor bridge collapsed on October 1, 2019; it has since been rebuilt and reopened, though checking current road conditions before visiting is still advisable.
What is Nanfang'ao Swordfish Hei-Lun
Hei-lun (a Taiwanese fish-paste product evolved from the Japanese word 'oden') made at Nanfang'ao typically uses black marlin or striped marlin. The paste has a high fish content with minimal filler, giving the finished cakes a firm, springy bite that is distinctly different from the soft, cottony texture of commercially blended fish cakes. The paste is shaped, then deep-fried or steamed before being simmered in a broth made from kelp and bonito until the cakes soak up the stock and the flavor intensifies. Swordfish catches peak in autumn and winter, making that the best time to visit.
Nanfang'ao falls under Su'ao Township. The Su'ao District Fishermen's Association website records swordfish catch volumes from Nanfang'ao's set-net fisheries, noting that October through March of the following year is swordfish peak season. Seafood street vendors at the harbor mouth supply fresh swordfish hei-lun mainly during this period. The Council of Agriculture Fisheries Agency also holds data on Nanfang'ao's set-net fisheries. While mackerel and skipjack tuna are also major catches at Nanfang'ao, swordfish hei-lun stands out for its distinct ingredient and is the most representative local snack on the seafood street.
How to eat it like a local
Local knowledge
Verified sources
- The Su'ao District Fishermen's Association website provides detailed information on swordfish catch volumes and set-net fisheries at Nanfang'ao; data is publicly available.
- Council of Agriculture Fisheries Agency data on Nanfang'ao's set-net fisheries confirms swordfish as the primary autumn-winter catch.
- Multiple vendor interview reports and travel media pieces on Nanfang'ao's seafood street confirm swordfish hei-lun as the signature local snack.
Visitor tips
- During spring and summer (April through September), swordfish catches decline; swordfish hei-lun available during this period may be made from frozen paste.
- A bridge at Nanfang'ao was involved in an incident in 2019; check current road access conditions before visiting.
- Swordfish hei-lun sold at some tourist hotels or in Yilan City is a vendor-supplied, pre-made product rather than freshly prepared — the flavor difference is significant.
Sources: Su'ao District Fishermen's Association website; Council of Agriculture Fisheries Agency data; seafood street vendor reports from Nanfang'ao. Photos pending replacement with Dio's own shots.
Frequently Asked Questions
When is the best time to eat Nanfang'ao swordfish hei-lun?
Autumn and winter, from around October when the northeast monsoon brings peak swordfish catches and the freshest paste.
What kind of harbor is Nanfang'ao?
Nanfang'ao is one of Taiwan's three major fishing harbors and is known as the hometown of mackerel.
What should I know about getting to Nanfang'ao?
The cross-harbor bridge collapsed in October 2019 but has since been rebuilt and reopened; check current road conditions before visiting.
Sources
- 蘇澳區漁會官網 — 南方澳漁港為三大漁港之一、鯖魚故鄉
- 南方澳大橋斷裂事故－維基百科 — 2019年10月1日斷橋事故