Nanfang'ao Swordfish Fish Cake (Guiyu Hei-Lun) | Yilan Signature Dish

Nanfang'ao is one of Taiwan's three major fishing harbors, and swordfish is its primary autumn-winter catch. Vendors at the harbor entrance grind freshly landed swordfish into paste on the spot, then shape and simmer it into hei-lun (oden-style fish cakes). The result is springy and sweet with a clean fish flavor — a freshness only possible this close to the source.

What is Nanfang'ao Swordfish Hei-Lun

Hei-lun (a Taiwanese fish-paste product evolved from the Japanese word 'oden') made at Nanfang'ao typically uses black marlin or striped marlin. The paste has a high fish content with minimal filler, giving the finished cakes a firm, springy bite that is distinctly different from the soft, cottony texture of commercially blended fish cakes. The paste is shaped, then deep-fried or steamed before being simmered in a broth made from kelp and bonito until the cakes soak up the stock and the flavor intensifies. Swordfish catches peak in autumn and winter, making that the best time to visit.

Nanfang'ao falls under Su'ao Township. The Su'ao District Fishermen's Association website records swordfish catch volumes from Nanfang'ao's set-net fisheries, noting that October through March of the following year is swordfish peak season. Seafood street vendors at the harbor mouth supply fresh swordfish hei-lun mainly during this period. The Council of Agriculture Fisheries Agency also holds data on Nanfang'ao's set-net fisheries. While mackerel and skipjack tuna are also major catches at Nanfang'ao, swordfish hei-lun stands out for its distinct ingredient and is the most representative local snack on the seafood street.

How to eat it like a local

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Visit in autumn or winter for the best catchOctober through March is Nanfang'ao's swordfish peak season. Swordfish hei-lun made during this period uses the freshest raw material, with the sweetest and most vibrant fish paste.

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Head to the seafood street at the harbor entranceMultiple swordfish hei-lun stalls are concentrated on the seafood street at the Nanfang'ao harbor entrance, where everything is made and simmered to order — noticeably fresher than versions sold in tourist areas.

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Drink the broth — it countsThe simmering swordfish cakes release a great deal of their ocean sweetness into the broth. Finish the soup along with the cakes; it is clear, clean, and free of fishiness, the essence of harbor-side cooking.

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Eat it hot for the best springThe springy texture of fish-paste cakes fades as they cool. Eat them right at the stall while still hot for the best mouthfeel.

Local knowledge

Verified sources

The Su'ao District Fishermen's Association website provides detailed information on swordfish catch volumes and set-net fisheries at Nanfang'ao; data is publicly available.
Council of Agriculture Fisheries Agency data on Nanfang'ao's set-net fisheries confirms swordfish as the primary autumn-winter catch.
Multiple vendor interview reports and travel media pieces on Nanfang'ao's seafood street confirm swordfish hei-lun as the signature local snack.

Visitor tips

During spring and summer (April through September), swordfish catches decline; swordfish hei-lun available during this period may be made from frozen paste.
A bridge at Nanfang'ao was involved in an incident in 2019; check current road access conditions before visiting.
Swordfish hei-lun sold at some tourist hotels or in Yilan City is a vendor-supplied, pre-made product rather than freshly prepared — the flavor difference is significant.

Sources: Su'ao District Fishermen's Association website; Council of Agriculture Fisheries Agency data; seafood street vendor reports from Nanfang'ao. Photos pending replacement with Dio's own shots.

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