Taiwan Food Atlas

Gaozha (Deep-fried Chicken Custard)

The 'mouth-burn trap' of Yilan's old city — three-generation stall's deep-fried frozen custard street snack
📍 Yilan · Dongmen Market🏯 Iconic · Street Food🔖 Mouth-burn trap · Chicken broth custard · Old-school flavor

Gaozha is a traditional Yilan market dish made by thickening chicken stock with starch, chilling it into a custard, then coating and deep-frying it — the shell turns golden and crispy while the filling stays scalding hot inside, a specialty kept alive for three generations at Yilan's Dongmen Market.

Gaozha was served at a Presidential Office state banquet during Chen Shui-bian's presidency in 2003, when the chef enriched the filling with scallop; the dish's technique traces back to a similar Fuzhou-cuisine preparation.

What is Gaozha?

Gaozha begins with a rich stock made from chicken meat and bones, mixed with tapioca starch or sweet potato starch until smooth, then poured into molds and refrigerated until set. The solid custard is cut into rectangular strips, coated in powder, and deep-fried. The outer shell fries to a golden crisp, but the chicken-broth custard inside re-liquefies from the heat, reaching temperatures that can exceed 90°C. The texture is crispy outside, tender inside, savory and rich. That rush of hot liquid when you bite through is the most distinctive characteristic of this old-school Yilan traditional market snack.

Gaozha originated in Yilan's old city district traditional markets and has long been supplied by stalls near Dongmen Market and Nanguan Market. It is not a chain or mass-produced product. Yilan County Government's Bureau of Cultural Affairs has included it in its 'Yilan Street Food Culture' records, recognizing it as an important element of the old city's culinary memory. Market stalls are typically family-run, passed down from generation to generation. The Apo stall at Dongmen Market has been operating for over fifty years, making everything fresh daily with no freezing and no overnight storage.

How to eat it like a local

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Watch out for the burnThe crispy shell makes it easy to assume the interior has cooled down, but the liquid chicken broth inside is still at a high temperature. Take a small, careful bite and let the heat escape slightly before eating.
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Eat it fresh and hotThe best time to eat gaozha is three to five minutes after frying. Once it cools, the shell softens and the custard solidifies again, significantly reducing the eating experience.
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Morning market onlyDongmen Market stalls typically open in the morning and close once sold out. Arrive before 10 a.m.; on weekends, even earlier.
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Order and taste aloneGaozha's savory chicken flavor is rich and concentrated. Try it on its own without any dipping sauce; the plain version best reveals the depth of the chicken broth.

Local knowledge

Verified sources

  • Listed in the Yilan County Government Bureau of Cultural Affairs 'Yilan Street Food Culture' records as a representative old-school flavor of the old city district.
  • The Apo stall at Dongmen Market has over fifty years of unbroken history and is one of the most frequently featured gaozha stalls in Yilan media.
  • Multiple books on Taiwan's traditional street food and food-focused TV programs have introduced Yilan's Dongmen Market as the authentic origin of gaozha.

Visitor tips

  • Gaozha is only available at Yilan's traditional markets. Versions sold in tourist shopping areas are mostly factory-made frozen products reheated — the quality gap is significant.
  • Weekend foot traffic is heavy and stalls sell out early. Weekday visits, or heading straight to the stall as soon as the market opens, are strongly recommended.
  • 'Apo Gaozha' and 'Yang's Gaozha' are the two most talked-about stalls at Dongmen Market, each with loyal fans. Feel free to try both and form your own opinion.

Sources: Yilan County Government Bureau of Cultural Affairs street food culture records, compiled media coverage. Photos pending Dio's on-site shoot.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is gaozha?

Gaozha is a Yilan street snack made of chicken-stock custard, coated and deep-fried until the outside is crispy and the inside scalding hot.

Has gaozha ever appeared at a state banquet?

Yes, gaozha was served at a Presidential Office state banquet in 2003 during Chen Shui-bian's presidency.

What should I watch out for when eating it?

The molten chicken-broth filling is very hot, so take small bites and eat it while fresh for the best texture.

Sources

🗺️ View on the map ← All Yilan dishes