Step into Jia'an Village in Jinfeng Township along Taitung's South-Link route and you will find village women sitting together wrapping abai — nightshade leaves laid flat, millet and pork placed on top, then bundled in shell ginger leaf and tied, then set into a large pot to steam. Once cooked, the wrapping is peeled back and the shell ginger fragrance rises at once: the millet is soft and chewy, the pork filling savory. This is the most representative traditional food of the Paiwan and Rukai peoples — far more than just a dumpling.
What is Abai / Cinavu?
Abai is a traditional food of the Paiwan and Rukai peoples. It is made by mixing millet or glutinous rice with a filling — commonly pork and taro flour — first rolling it in a layer of "nightshade leaf" (this leaf is edible and aids digestion), then wrapping the whole bundle in a "shell ginger leaf" and tying it with twine before steaming in a large pot. Abai is the Rukai word; cinavu is the Paiwan word for the same category of food; it is sometimes called "indigenous rice dumpling," though its shape, filling, and technique are entirely different from Han Chinese meat dumplings. This guide is explicit: abai belongs to the Paiwan and Rukai peoples, not the Amis.
Why Taitung? The South-Link corridor of Taitung County — Jinfeng Township, Taimali Township, and Daren Township — along with Wutai and Sandimen in Pingtung, is the primary homeland of the Paiwan and Rukai peoples, where abai culture is deeply rooted. Jia'an Village in Jinfeng Township is one of the most representative abai-making communities in Taitung. Cooperatives of village women — brands such as "Pei Fa Pei Zong" — have long promoted the tradition, transforming abai from a ceremonial food into an indigenous flavor available for everyday purchase. According to the Council of Indigenous Peoples' Language Development Foundation, abai and cinavu are different ethnic-language names for the same type of food.
How to eat it the authentic way
Local knowledge
Verified sources (sponsored content filtered)
- Council of Indigenous Peoples' Language Development Foundation: abai is the Rukai word and cinavu is the Paiwan word — different language names for the same category of traditional food.
- Wrapping millet and pork in nightshade leaf and shell ginger leaf and steaming the bundle is a practice of the Paiwan and Rukai peoples that has continued for hundreds of years.
- Jia'an Village, Jinfeng Township is a primary abai-producing community in Taitung, with village cooperatives long promoting traditional techniques.
Practical tips
- Do not call it Amis dumpling — abai belongs to the Paiwan and Rukai peoples. Cultural ownership deserves respect.
- Shell ginger leaf and nightshade leaf are two different leaves. Remember which layer is edible and which is not.
- Hand-made by village women does not keep long — eat it the day you buy it. If you need to store it, freeze rather than refrigerate.
Data compiled from the Taitung County Government Department of Transportation and Tourism Development, township and village farmers' associations, and large-scale public reviews. Sponsored listings have been filtered out. Photos will be replaced with exclusive channel footage after Dio's on-site shoot.