Dongyin is the northernmost island of Matsu and the frontline closest to mainland China. Cold sea water sweeps the reef rocks, creating one of the rare natural habitats for jiukong (small abalone) among Taiwan's outer islands. The jiukong here are not force-fed to grow large — they live on reef algae and grow at their own pace. They are smaller than farmed ones, but the flesh carries a clean, sweet freshness from the cold water. This is the reason those in the know make a special trip to Dongyin.
What Is Jiukong Abalone
Jiukong (scientific name Haliotis diversicolor) is a close relative of the abalone; the nine respiratory pores on its shell are the defining feature. Dongyin island is densely studded with reef rocks, has strong currents, and maintains low water temperatures — the environment jiukong prefer. Local operators have established small-scale farms by incorporating natural reef areas; jiukong is prepared by steaming, blanching, or roasting with minced garlic. The flesh is tender and sweet, neither tough nor stringy. Wild-foraged individuals are also found on the reef rocks of Beigan's Banli; they are smaller but similarly flavored.
In the Eastern Fujian food system, jiukong is a premium seafood ingredient; the coastal areas of Fuzhou also have a tradition of eating it. However, because Matsu Dongyin's waters are remote and subject to little human disturbance, they have been identified by travel media and local food enthusiasts in recent years as a high-quality source. Fisheries data from the Dongyin Township Office shows that jiukong season is concentrated in autumn and winter (September through February of the following year); some farms suspend supply in summer to maintain population levels. Travelers visiting outside the autumn–winter period should confirm supply in advance.
How to Eat It Like a Local
Local Know-How
Verified Third-Party Endorsements
- Fisheries industry data from the Lienchiang County Dongyin Township Office records jiukong aquaculture as a main fisheries feature of Dongyin; the Dongyin Township tourism guide also recommends it as the island's representative seafood.
- Multiple entries in Backpackers' travel notes on Dongyin seafood record jiukong as a "must-eat" on Dongyin, with reviews consistently describing the flesh as tender, sweet, and free of any fishy odor.
Visiting Tips
- Transport to Dongyin depends on the Taiwan–Matsu ferry or cross-strait mini-links; sailings are heavily weather-dependent. Build at least one extra day into your itinerary as a buffer to avoid wasted trips.
- In summer (March–August) some farms suspend operations; before you leave, contact the Dongyin Township fisheries unit or ask your guesthouse to confirm availability.
- Jiukong on Dongyin is supplied primarily by seafood restaurants, not market stalls; reserve in advance at a restaurant to avoid finding it sold out.
Data sources: Lienchiang County Dongyin Township Office fisheries industry data, Dongyin Township tourism guide, Backpackers' travel notes (Dongyin seafood). Photos will be replaced after Dio's on-site shoot.