Zhongzhen Flaky Steamed Buns (Po Suo Bao)

Zhongzhen po suo bao is a layered flaky bun made by descendants of Yunnan migrants around Zhongzhen Market in Longgang, Taoyuan, its wrapper folded into multiple thin layers that split open at first bite. Zhongzhen New Village is Taiwan's largest Yunnan-Burmese Lost Army military-dependents' community, where veterans from Yunnan and their descendants settled and brought their hometown dough-food skills. The name po suo bao comes from the Yunnan dialect, meaning "the flaky layers break open"; both savory and sweet fillings have their own character, and the bun has become one of the most recognizable souvenirs from Zhongzhen Market.

Zhongzhen New Village was built in autumn 1954 by Taiwan's Ministry of National Defense in the Longgang area (now part of Pingzhen District) to house 534 (some sources say 503) households of the Yunnan Anti-Communist National Salvation Army and their dependents, who had retreated to Taiwan from the Yunnan-Burma border in late 1953. The village was demolished starting in 2004, and Taiwan's first Yunnan Cultural Park opened on the site in June 2013. Yunnan dough foods such as po suo bao arrived with these veterans and are still made today by their second- and third-generation descendants at Zhongzhen Market.

What are Po Suo Bao

Po Suo Bao is a traditional Yunnan-province dough food made by a method similar to Chinese laminated pastry: water-oil dough wrapped around a fat-oil dough, folded and rolled repeatedly, then filled and either baked or steamed. The savory filling is typically pork, diced ham, and minced ginger; the sweet filling is red bean or date paste. The finished bun has a pale golden exterior; a light press with the hand reveals clearly layered, flaky layers, and flaking during eating is normal. The Zhongzhen Market version follows the Yunnan tradition without adapting it to Taiwanese tastes, retaining a high degree of authenticity.

Pingjhen's Zhongzhen New Village (present-day Longgang area) has housed the families of the Yunnan-Burmese Lost Army since the 1950s, with communities composed primarily of Yunnan, Burmese, and northern Thai immigrants. Zhongzhen Market consequently developed a Yunnan-Burmese food cluster unique in Taiwan: in addition to po suo bao, mi gan, pea jelly, and big thin slices all originate here. As the original veterans have gradually passed on, the second and third generations have continued the craft; some shops are still operating today, making this one of the most complete Yunnan food-preserving communities in Taiwan.

How to Eat It the Local Way

Local Knowledge

Sources: Mirror Media Yunnan-Burmese food feature, Lighttravel Zhongzhen Market report, Vocus feature article, National Cultural Memory Bank Zhongzhen New Village records. Photos pending Dio's on-site shoot.