Hongdou bing — also called wheel cake — is made by rotating an iron mold: two rounds of batter come together around a warm red bean filling, pressed and griddled until both sides are golden, then popped out of the mold. The Fengyuan Miao Dong version has a shell griddled with slightly charred edges, a filling that's generous and doesn't shrink, and red bean sweetness calibrated just right. It's one of the most ubiquitous desserts in Taiwan's night markets. The Miao Dong version has nothing particularly mysterious about it — what it does, it does with enough substance, enough heat, and enough fragrance. That's already plenty.
What is Red Bean Wheel Cake
Red bean wheel cake is made from a thin batter (flour, egg, sugar, and milk) poured into round iron molds. Filling is added and covered with another layer of batter; the mold is closed and heated until the cake is baked through. The standard shell is griddled to a golden color with slightly charred edges, even on both sides. The filling is based on honeyed red beans, moderately sweet. The Fengyuan Miao Dong version uses a proportionally thick layer of red bean filling — no hollow shells. The batter is thin and springy. Besides red bean, common flavors include peanut, taro, and butter cream, but red bean is the original form of the category and the featured flavor at Miao Dong stalls.
Red bean wheel cake traces its origin to Japan's imagawayaki (precursor to taiyaki). After taking root in Taiwan, it became known as 'wheel cake' or 'red bean cake' — now a standard dessert category at night markets across the island. Fengyuan Miao Dong Night Market has multiple stalls selling it; here it plays the role of the sweet option alongside the pork rib noodles and braised pork knuckle. Fengjia Night Market is another major hub for wheel cake in Taichung, but the Miao Dong version is smaller in scale with a notably loyal base of regulars.
How to eat it the local way
Local knowledge
Context
- Red bean wheel cake is a standard night market dessert across Taiwan. The Fengyuan Miao Dong stall is the representative local vendor, with red bean filling as the featured flavor.
- Miao Dong red bean cakes are griddled to a golden color with a substantial filling — the local standard for quality, making this the top dessert choice at Miao Dong Night Market.
- Red bean wheel cake is also available at other Taichung night markets including Fengjia. The Fengyuan Miao Dong version is smaller in scale but has a high proportion of returning regulars.
Things to know before you go
- The wheel cake shell contains egg and dairy. Those with egg or dairy allergies should take note; some stalls offer egg-free versions — ask in advance.
- Miao Dong Night Market is busy on weekends with many stalls and crowds. Finding the wheel cake stall may require walking along the street, as there isn't always a prominent sign.
- Wheel cakes are not low in calories — eating several in a row is filling. Estimate how many you want before ordering to avoid buying more than you can eat.
Source: field research at Fengyuan Miao Dong Night Market. Photos to be replaced with Dio's own images.