Ci zong — also called niao bu ta ("bird won't perch") or food zhuyu — is a native edible spice plant of Taiwan's mountain areas. Its leaves are densely thorned and its aroma is sharp and distinctive, like a cross between Sichuan pepper and ginger. Sancheng Tang on Shuimei Street in Sanyi Township incorporates ci zong into fried rice alongside ginger, dried whitebait, and house-made soy sauce. In the high heat of the wok, an intense wild mountain aroma found only in Hakka villages is forced out, turning a bowl of fried rice into a gateway for understanding Taiwan's native spice plants.
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Ci zong (Zanthoxylum ailanthoides), also called niao bu ta or food zhuyu, is a native Rutaceae plant of Taiwan's mountain areas; its leaves and young shoots carry a strong pungent spice, similar to Sichuan pepper but more herbaceous and fresh. Sancheng Tang's ci zong fried rice uses fresh or pickled ci zong leaves, stir-fried in a wok over high heat with minced ginger, dried small whitebait (ding xiang fish), and the restaurant's house-made soy sauce combined with plain steamed rice. In the heat, the pungency of ci zong volatilizes without becoming truly spicy, leaving behind a uniquely wild herbal aroma; the grains are glossy and distinct, and the flavor is savory-umami with a slight numbing quality — a Hakka mountain flavor that is difficult to replicate elsewhere.
Sancheng Tang is located at No. 283-1, Shuimei Street, Sanyi Township, and is one of the more distinctive Hakka cuisine restaurants in Sanyi Township. Lighttour's "9 Most Authentic Hakka Food Recommendations" and Shihnang Wanjia's Miaoli Hakka Food Map both name the restaurant explicitly and record ci zong fried rice as its signature dish. The restaurant also serves Shengxing tofu (made by a local tofu producer), Hakka rice pastries, and other Hakka village-style dishes; the overall menu centers on local Miaoli ingredients, making it a worthwhile stop when visiting Sanyi's Shengxing Old Street.
How to eat it authentically
Local knowledge
Verified sources
- Lighttour's '9 Most Authentic Hakka Food Recommendations' and Shihnang Wanjia's Miaoli Hakka Food Map both name Sancheng Tang (No. 283-1, Shuimei Street, Sanyi Township) and ci zong fried rice as its signature dish.
- Ci zong (niao bu ta / food zhuyu, Zanthoxylum ailanthoides) is recognized by the Council of Agriculture Forestry Bureau as a native edible spice plant of Taiwan's mountain areas, with official botanical records.
Visitor tips
- Sancheng Tang is a restaurant, not a street stall; calling ahead to reserve a table is recommended. Sanyi attracts many visitors on weekends, and without a reservation the wait may be long.
- Shuimei Street is known for woodcarving; parking is more plentiful there than near Shengxing Old Street. Dining on Shuimei Street first and then walking or driving to the Shengxing Station area is a practical sequence.
- Ci zong's strong aroma varies greatly in how different people experience it; some visitors are not accustomed to its pungency and numbing quality. If you are sensitive to Sichuan pepper-type spices, ask about other menu options before sitting down.
Sources: Lighttour Hakka food recommendations feature; Shihnang Wanjia Miaoli Hakka Food Map; Council of Agriculture Forestry Bureau Taiwan native plant records. Photos pending Dio's on-site shoot.