Every year from March to May, Dongyin Harbor is a hive of activity before dawn — this is what Matsu people call the "tao huanggua" season ("catching yellow cucumbers," the local dialect name for yellow croaker). Fishing boats return to port laden with golden, gleaming large yellow croakers. A fresh fish is rinsed, laid on a plate, doused with Matsu aged rice wine, and scattered with ginger shreds, then steamed over high heat. The meat separates into delicate, garlic-clove-like flakes, suffused with wine fragrance — this is the signature fish that appears at every Matsu meal.
What Is Matsu Yellow Croaker
The yellow croaker (scientific name Larimichthys crocea) is a migratory marine fish of the Sciaenidae family, named for its golden-yellow body and the croaking sound it produces. The waters surrounding the Matsu Archipelago are a key area for both wild and farmed large yellow croaker. Dongyin's waters are deep with strong currents; every spring from March to May marks the peak migration of wild yellow croakers, a season Dongyin's fishers call "tao huanggua" (the dialect name for the fish). In addition to wild-caught fish, Matsu also operates cage aquaculture for yellow croaker, supplying it year-round.
The Dongyin Township Office lists yellow croaker as the largest single fish product in the Dongyin area, and Lienchiang County tourism information explicitly states "steamed yellow croaker in aged rice wine at every meal," underscoring its central place in Matsu cuisine. The traditional preparation is steaming with laojiu to let the wine permeate the flesh and preserve the natural flavor; a few restaurants also do red-braised or pan-fried versions. Wild yellow croaker has firmer flesh and richer fat than the farmed variety, a noticeably different flavor, and a considerably higher price.
How to Eat It Like a Local
Local Know-How
Verified Third-Party Endorsements (Sponsorship Filtered)
- The Dongyin Township Office records yellow croaker as the largest fish product in the Dongyin area and notes it can be braised with aged rice wine.
- Lienchiang County tourism information explicitly lists "steamed yellow croaker in aged rice wine at every meal" as a representative Matsu seafood dish.
- Dongyin fishers' annual March–May "tao huanggua" season is a traditional local fishing activity.
Visiting Tips
- Wild yellow croaker supply is unpredictable — call the restaurant ahead of time to confirm the day's catch.
- Farmed yellow croaker is more affordable; the price gap with wild can be several times higher — ask before ordering.
- Transport to Dongyin is inconvenient; plan a stay of 2–3 days rather than a day trip.
Data compiled from the Lienchiang County Tourism Bureau, Matsu Distillery, and a large volume of public reviews; sponsored content has been filtered out. Photos will be replaced with the channel's exclusive footage after Dio's on-site shoot.